Skip To Site Navigation

Blogs

What the fashion industry can teach us about advertising awards - and it isn't pleasant.

 Last week Campaign ran a piece about the decline in scam advertising entered into Cannes this year. In the inset it included a fairly sensible defence of scam work from Neil French which is simply to say "if it's interesting, who cares?" Just as no-one really cares whether catwalk fashion is wearable or not.

This to me is still Exhibit A in the case for the Defence. We enjoy looking at great work, and it helps inspire us. There is of course the risk that through scam work (as I have mentioned elsewhere in this blog) great ideas are squandered on miniscule businesses - so that a chip shop ends up running a campaign that could have made millions for KFC. But that is not the fault of awards, it is the fault of an exaggerated obsession with originality that pervades our industry. If we were run like a sane business, Cannes would become a giant trade fair.... and some Japanese 4x4 manufacturer would pay the Land Rover Owners Club of Malaysia and their creative team £500,000 for their campaign idea.  Alas this is not how things work, and a great number of creative people lack swimming pools as a result.

 

Exhibit B is simply that awards are an aid to hiring. That is not to say that you should hire the team with the most awards, but simply that you should think before hiring any team which has been working for a few years and yet has never won any awards at all. The fact that you can do the award-winning stuff when the occasion requires is important, since it proves you have that mix of talent, ambition and tenacity which you'll need as a team if you are to be any use in the long run. Awards are a bit like A-Level Latin: even if it's not much use in itself, it is evidence of a tolerable degree of intelligence, ability and commitment.

But there is a dangerous downside to awards, and it is exacerbated by league tables, Gunn Reports and bonus schemes which reward people proportionately according to the number of awards they win. All these things create the belief that someone who wins 15 awards is three times better than someone who wins five. This is a little like hiring as graduate trainees whichever applicants have the most A-Levels. (I don't know about you, but to me a cv with 17 A -Levels on it would suggest not a great hire but some kind of wacko). To attach numerical rather than subjective values to awards is to fall foul of Goodhart's Law, which states that any metric which becomes a target loses its meaning as a metric.

But the worst effect of awards is really that they may encourage creatives to compete.

Eh? How can I, a bit of a Thatcherite and all that, suddenly attack competition.

Well, only if I explain - as this blog post does very neatly - that there are two kinds of competition. When you compete for something, and when you compete against someone. The first is much more creative than the second.

When you compete against people, you use the same frame of reference they are using. The competition generally becomes formalised, and conventions are observed. Most sports are eventually codified this way.And, like most sports, it largely deteriorates into a zero-sum game. Fundamentally the activity is self-referential rather than being truly original.It also leads to the kind of sameness and commoditisation which should be anathema to any good marketer - a bunch of me-too products which all compete on the same measures and which are largely defined by their competitors.

 The alternative is to ignore a peer group and compete for something external.

Or, as Buckminster Fuller had it, “You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.” In other words, don't use your competitors' metrics, devise one of your own. Dyson, iPod, easyJet...... it's an easy list to write.

Now if you want to see an example of where competition goes wrong, where it deteriorates from the healthy form to the ingrown version, once again Neil French's fashion industry holds a lesson.

 Take a look at women's fashion - possibly the greatest example of misdirected human effort since the Germans lost 3m men invading a country I don't even want to go to on holiday. A pointless industry which pollutes the high street of every town in the country, leaving little room for essentials such as curry houses, ironmongers and pubs.

 At some point, maybe a million years ago, women used their clothes to attract men. However, outside the more vulgar form of film, this technique has now become lost. Women now buy clothes simply to intimidate other women. For women have entirely lost sight of their primary target audience and concentrate exclusively on the secondary audience - each other.

The apotheosis of this movement arises in the UGG Boot, an item of footwear so fantastically repellent to men it is impossible for us to become even partially aroused when within 100 yards of any pair (even if they are in a locked wardrobe).

Have awards gone the same way? In other words are they now merely, like women's fashion, a battleground for peer-group intimidation rather than having any surviving intrinsic purpose. An arms race, in economic parlance.

The solution is fairly simple. Restrict entry to one international awards show and one local one. Bank the money you save. Use it to create fabulously generous rewards for creatives who win these awards for existing clients. And also fabulously lavish rewards for non-award-winning work which is remarkable in some non-formulaic way - or for work which is startlingly effective. Make sure that the work rewarded is always remarkable but often unexpected. Reward the huge and good alongside the small and great.

 

All Comments

  August 9, 2009

Good article.  Not central to your arguement, but thank you so much for the UGG boot comment... UGG boots are slippers; it's like going out in your PJs!!!

  August 9, 2009

And, in defence of UGG, they are four-inch Manolo heels in the erotic stakes compared to a pair of Crocs !

  August 9, 2009

Yup, the original motto of D&AD was "Stimulation not congratulation."

Does anyone think that's still true today, of any awards scheme anywhere?

  August 9, 2009

Talent pool to swimming pool

Thanks for another thought provoking blog.

But I don’t buy parts of it: For example, the notion that competition against someone else will always be a zero sum game.

Look at that moment in 20th century art when Georges Braque and Pablo Picasso were competitors. Locking horns, painting a series of pictures that were completely different from anything that had been done before yet similar to each other. The outcome was cubism: And the sums required to purchase these paintings are a long way north of zero.

VHS Betamax, US versus Soviet space race. The competition for something and against someone often go together.

Truly pointless competition is about the context the competition happens in.

Sir Ken Robinson in his brilliant TED talk, www.ted.com/.../ken_robinson_says_schools_kill_creativity.html

defines creativity as original idea plus added value.

It explains why we’re not comfortable with scam ads. It’s not clear where the added value is.

This loss of relation to value means our industry loses an important external reference point, and becomes self-referential instead.

Personally I question whether creatives are still in a position to add much of their creativity to most organizations. I suspect they’re too far away from the centre of it to do this properly. Hence the rise of the in-house creative.

And look at the meteoric rise in apps: getting creativity into a company needs working closely with a product.

I also don’t share your zero sum analysis of women competing with women, in fashionista land.

Women use fashion to compete with one another because out that competition comes their most precious assent of all: Confidence.

It’s confidence that helps makes women sexy to men, (it’s the curvy stuff too of course), but it’s confidence and that’s the end product to the end user - men. Fashion is a mere sub-assembly.

There’s hard-core evolutionary value in that.

And here’s where fashion is different from advertising. Most men don’t care about the fashion, as long as they don’t have to pay for it or shop for it.  Many clients are antipathetic to awards.

If great ideas are squandered on little businesses, we’re not being creative enough in getting great ideas into big businesses.

If we can do that more people in advertising would have swimming pools.

Now wheres my towel? I’m going for a swim in my local lido.

  August 9, 2009

Rory, agree about competition and awards, but am not buying that Fashion was ever just about women attracting men. Especially as men were as much the peacocks in fashion history. It is about caste and class structure. Velvet collars and lace sleeves meant one did not have to do any manual work. High heeled slippers — and bound feet — meant you didn't even have to walk. UGGS, on the other hand, simply mean your feet hurt from those masochistic Manolos.

  August 10, 2009

I'm so sorry that we want ot wear uggs as they are warm and comfortable, maybe we should go back to wearing high heels all the time just to impress men, oh hang on the world has moved on, maybe you should. Most of the minging stuff that men wear is seldom worn to attract the opposite sex so why the hell should we?

  August 10, 2009

Actually Niclola I'll retract the UGG attack and even apologise. They are spectacularly comfortable. I know this because I was given a pair of Ugg men's slippers in the TED goody-bag and wore them for the first time last night. Absolutely not the fashion obsession I thought, but a sensible, even sensuous form of footwear.

However, if you really doubt the misdirected effort which is women's fashion, I have a one-word riposte: handbags.

Most men wouldn't notice if women carried large Netto bags, or those strange tartan things you get in launderettes.

  August 11, 2009

Fair enough. I still don't understand how having a fashion accessory which isn't aimed at attracting men is somehow 'misdirected'.

  August 12, 2009

"you should think before hiring any team which has been working for a few years and yet has never won any awards at all"

I tended to hire indviduals with books that showed they could create great, selling work... awards or not, real or not (though an ability to show you could deal with the 'process' was a reassurance).

And my agency's clients seemed to hire us on pretty much the same basis, if with a tilt to track record.

Seemed to work OK. For all involved.

  August 13, 2009

Oh dear, hiring teams off what awards they've won? An idea firmly routed in the 1990's - British advertising's most woeful decade.

  August 18, 2009

I did 'O' level Latin.

Can I suggest Rory that a sign be erected above the elevator doors at Canary Wharf which says,

Timeo daneus et donna firentas

Which roughly translates to,

Beware of freaks sharing lifts.

what if awards made us more attractive to the opposite sex? I think we'd see more competition and even more interesting looking trophies. LIke the Cleo-toris. Campaign Erect. Or the daddy of them all, the Golden Phallus of Montreux.

Runners up receive a certificate of tumescence.

Pingback from  10" de atenção de 19 de agosto | the worst kind of thief

  September 21, 2009

Is it OK if the Chip Shop makes millions? I hate to think I'm going into an industry that is loathe to support small businesses. Why let KFC have all the fun?

Lizzie - I go to the corner shop in my slippers...

  October 31, 2009

Yes, UGG's aren't sexy, but they are comfortable. The same could be said about doing good work for the big, the bad, and the ugly clients. They may not be the most attractive pieces of business to work on, but they certainly help create a comfortable environment for agencies to speculate in top drawer work. Which is the most important part of a flower? The stork, the root, or the flower? Tunnel vision is no good for any agency. Especially now.

To comment on this post you have to be logged in
 
ADVERTISEMENT