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Gordon's Republic

Oliviero Toscani returns with shock and bones

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Former Benetton creative director, Oliviero Toscani, is back and on familiar ground with a 'shock' ad of a woman suffering from anorexia.

The ad is for some fashion brand although as with his previous work its less about the fashion and more about the statement. The time around the ad is supposed to shock the fashion industry into doing something about the problem of anorexia.

Next week, a skinny model will be shown after a coke binge. That will try to shock…oh whatever.

While at Benetton, Toscani did a whole series of ads on everything from aids to racism and capital punishment. All for the United Colours.

I remember some of the ads, but was never sure what it said about Benetton other than it like to give its creative director free rein and the general idea that Benetton clothes were worn colourful by kids of foreign exchange trips (I may have made that bit up). In the end the affect started to fade and Toscani left Benetton.

Now he is back doing the same thing again as part of Italian fashion week with an ad featuring the very emaciated Isabelle Caro, 27, who weighs 4 stone, 12lb. She's light, there's no denying it.

Does this ad really shock anyone who works in fashion? Or Anywhere else for that matter? I don't think it does. How do you shock a bunch of skinny champagne coke heads with great cheekbones? Beats me. Does it tackle the problems of anorexia? No, I don't think it scores on that front either.

Although the people behind it, Flash & Partners, said in a statement that Toscani's aim was "to use the naked body to show everyone the reality of this illness, caused in most cases by the stereotypes imposed by the world of fashion".

But that isn't anything like the whole story. The shocking image that makes her look like a famine victim presupposes that anorexia is the fault of the fashion industry.

Anorexia is not a fashion related disease although there is no denying that fashion encourages certain body sizes.

Anorexia is a complicated disease. Just take the case of the "model" used in the ad. Caro has had anorexia since she was 13 and it is said to be the result of a "difficult childhood".

Her story is true of many who suffer. They deal with deep psychological problems that go back years. What's the connection between those symptoms and some advertising to liven up the fashion industry for a firm called Flash & Partners that is promoting a fashion brand for young women called Nolita?

Caro said that she has "hidden" herself for too long and now wants to show herself "fearlessly, even though I know my body arouses repugnance".

It is repugnant to look at. No doubt about it, but it grabs a few headlines as well. I saw this in the Evening Standard and have already spoken to the Scotsman about it.

If it doesn't really shock and doesn't tackle anorexia, what does it do? Raise awareness of the brand? That old advertising chestnut? It doesn't seem to do that either.

Published Sep 26 2007, 09:28 AM by Gordon Macmillan

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Comments

by Bill Britt

September 26, 2007 11:53 AM

Toscani's campaign for Benetton ran out of steam because consumers began to realise that instead of using ads to raise important social issues, Benetton was actually exploiting important issues to sell clothes. After the campaign ended Toscani published in 1998 a 122-page hardback book entitled "COLORS Casa: The Coffee-Table Book", featuring the feces of a variety of animals including humans. A natural progression for his advertising work.

by Jacquie Bowser

September 27, 2007 12:00 PM

This ad is in the Daily Mirror as well. I must say that I was pretty shocked when I saw the image. Sure the fashion industry may not be the cause of anorexia but it must be the industry with the MOST anorexic people. So shouldn't we surmise some sort of connection, whether it be a small one? I think this ad could possibly shock a lot of young models in the industry and perhaps they might take note and consciously avoid doing the same thing to themselves. At least the ad is out there and everyone can see the devastation it causes.

by Gordon Macmillan

September 27, 2007 12:03 PM

I don't think its shocking. It's tragic, but not shocking.

by Alex Donohue

September 27, 2007 4:16 PM

A deeply disturbing image nonetheless. Based on Caro's weight, it's about as close to death a human can get yet still be alive. It's troubling what this campaign hopes to achieve though; there's a sense of preaching to the converted. The fashion industry can't have the blame for anorexia put solely at its door; it's a psychological affliction that existed long before there was anything resembling a global fashion industry. But it's impossible for the industry, if it's to maintain a shred of decency, to continue burying its head in the sand about something so horrifying.

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