When you think about it, the average bottle of spirits is half full. At least, I'm sure this mathematical rule-of-thumb must apply to stock on display in the on-trade. I've often been struck, therefore (in Scottish bars especially, where a plethora of ancient malts stand to tired attention) by the amount of air on display. Backlit bottles look great when they're full - golden, honeyed, alluring - but half empty or worse... the effect is the opposite. I was shocked, therefore, to discover a brand that I've come to rely upon for its distinctive dark packaging - always consistent, identifiable even at a slurred distance, determinedly defying far-flung bartenders' efforts to mispronounce it and sell you the local hooch - has moved into clear glass. The product in question is Drambuie - currently proudly advertising its new bottle via a neck-collar in supermarkets. The stuff inside looks as appetising as ever... but if this same packaging is heading for the on-trade... I fear for its appeal as nitrogen gradually takes precedence.
