‘Anger as organic claims shot down ‘ was the headline on the Metro yesterday. The Soil Association and green food lovers are up in arms about a report by the Foods Standards Agency that dents the image of organic food. Far from it being healthier for you, the report says it’s the same as non-organic.In a £2bn market that has already been dented by the recession – organics is the only ethical product suffering – this report does nothing to help sales. But then charging silly margins doesn’t either, I noticed that an organic cucumber in one supermarket was twice that of an ordinary one.Based on both my own research (Ethical Shopping Survey) and others, consumers seem to buy organics for several reasons. Firstly a small number are true green buyers, seeing it as a much better ethical choice. They know the whole picture and it’s part of their green lifestyle. The second group see it as chemical free, which is not quite true as they do use copper sulphate on onions and leeks for example. Then there’s the middle classes who see it as a better quality, better tasting choice, a premium purchase. This is the group that’s abandoned it in the recession. I would like to add that a recent piece of research published in one marketing publication portrayed a decline in organic purchases as evidence that consumers were abandoning ethics. This isn’t an accurate interpretation when you consider the last group of buyers.The reason people are angry is that the report focused just on nutrients not on the residue of pesticides and other chemicals. The Soil Association regard that as key to the definition of ‘healthier’. The FSA don’t. But their research is not shallow, they looked at over 162 research documents covering 50 years of work and over 3,500 food comparisons.Meanwhile in the Mail, they have attacked the attack on organics as part of a cynical campaign by the food industry, in alliance with pharmaceutical and big biotechnology companies. They also claim there’s a hidden agenda to promote GM as they claim the FSA and the government are pro GM.GM is another area that stimulates big debate. One organisation recently did a PR stunt by attacking a field of GM crop dressed in nuclear suits. Why? Stupidly they were risking their credibility, GM and nuclear have nothing to do with each other. But the organisation were using spin tactics to try and make dumb punters think so. Is that ethical?
The Guardian aren't fond of the FSA report either, with Leo Hickman calling the FSA "one of the most weak-willed, pro-industry government bodies out there ".
However, there does seem to be some truth in the claims that the FSA have ignored key facts that may not fall under the term healthier rather than nutritional. For example, in one study by the FSA it was found that some organics had 11.3 per cent more zinc, 38.4 per cent more flavonoids and 12.7 per cent more proteins. So what does ‘healthier ‘ mean?The claim that organic meat and veg tastes better is a debatable one. This can be as much about the growing method and breed as farmers tend to use better stock. But as a former allotment owner all my chemical free produce were usually misshapen and half eaten by insects. Of course they tasted better, as they were fresher. Not surprisingly, some tests have revealed a placebo effect is also at work.One thing that came out of research I conducted last year (Ethical Shopping Survey) was that of all the symbols we tested Fairtrade came out top for recognition (the Grocer found a similar result). By contrast, the organic/Soil Association one came bottom. It’s a bad logo and I’d love to redesign it. Based on narratives, Tesco’s organic logo was seen as better. Soil association please note.
Personally I think the FSA report will make no difference to current organic shoppers. What it has done though is stimulate debate, and that's alwasy good.
What intrigues me about all these articles is that it is all about the human experience of organic food. What about the massive benefit to other animals? Insects and birds thrive on farmland which is not covered in pesticides. What about the bees? Bees are in trouble, partly because of pesticides. If bees die out, humans are eventually doomed. Surely the argument should be about what is better for the soil, and the pollinators? Sod people, middle classes, green voters and ethical decisions. Think of the soil, and the benefits to the planet of reducing pesticides. Then it becomes an obvious choice.
'Nuclear and GM have nothing to do with each other'. Semantically and philosophically, maybe, Gordon. But 'ethically' they're in the same bin together alongside Jeremy Clarkson, Ryanair and George Bush. If people are abandoning organic, it's just a price thing. Sustainability is about balancing economic and social as well as environmental. If the price is wrong, it isn't sustainable, no matter how green or useful it is. But Sue Buckle is right. People instinctively buy organic because it's about the big picture and the planet as a whole. We'd all buy into that if we could afford to. Unless, that is, you're on the short-termist side of the devil that the mainstream food industry surely is. And the FSA has played right into that, probably deliberately.
An interesting debate I came across was about kiwi fruit and grapefruits. Both are not natural. Both have been the outcome of cross breading. A lot of what we eat is the outcome of generations of cross breeding, filtration, and manipulation. From the humble cow, pigs and sheep to corn, tomatoes and the rest. In short, GM without the CSI style lab coats. Both grapefruits and kiwis are very healthy fruits. In fact the kiwi has one of the highest doses of vitamin C and full of anti-oxidants. GM is a hot debate, and the reason it's a debate is because it has two sides, both full of rational and emotional arguments. And as I said, debate is one of the healthiest things we can do,
CHRIS ARNOLD
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